AN ELECTRIC STARTER FOR HAROLD'S REGULAR



Harold Sohner is proud of his Farmall Regular, as well he should be, and he enjoys exhibiting it at tractor shows and driving it in parades. However, there is always one task involved in all of this that is not pleasurable, and that is cranking the tractor to get it running. It should be pointed out, too, that turning over an engine the size of that on the Regular becomes even more burdensome as the years march on. So, when Harold read an article in the Jan./Feb. 2010 issue of Red Power Magazine that described adding an electric starter to a Farmall Regular, this motivated him to design and build a starter for his Regular.

Harold  considered different ways of mounting the starter mechanism, including attaching the starter to the PTO; however, that seemed to be a rather clumsy solution, as the PTO shaft is located under the differential, and this would involve adding an extension to the PTO shaft and mounting the starter motor on the hitch. Harold decided that utilizing the pulley would be the most efficient way to proceed. The procedure that he followed is described below in his words.

"The starter, off a Farmall 560 diesel, came from Troy's place (Legend Hill Enterprises, on U.S. Highway 16 south of Fredericksburg, Texas. Owned and operated by Troy Rhodes). The ring gear is for a Farmall M, IHC p/n 266142R1."

"The large hole in the mounting plate through which the starter spur gear passes was cut in two stages, first with a bimetal hole saw to within about 1/4th inch of needed, then finished with a fly cutter on the vertical mill. On the mill, the plate was mounted on a rotary indexing table to accurately drill the starter mounting bolt holes. That plate was then welded to the first angle (Photo 1). Photo 2 shows the alignment of the (as yet uncut to final size) bolt plate for drilling through the frame. The mounting plate was then clamped to the bolt angle (now bolted to the frame) and adjusted for vertial and horizontal location of the spur gear for accurate engagement with the ring gear. With positions scribed, the rig was disassembled, angles cut to size, and final weldup made. Only a small shim was necessary to bring the final assembly into exact position (Photo 3). The sign was removed prior to final painting!!"

"Because the pulley crowned, the 1/4 inch thick rolled spacer between the ring gear and the pulley required a shim on the very outside diameter--a rolled strip of 14 ga.steel was used and lightly hammered into place (can be seen in Photo 4). Prior to welding the ring gear to the pulley, the concentricity was measured with a trammel and dial gauge. Runout after welding was about 0.02", adequate for this use (and as it turns out, less than the pulley bearing play itself."



Photo 1
Photo 1
Mounting Plate welded to Angle Iron

Photo 2
Photo 2
Bolt Plate aligned with Frame

Photo 3
Photo 3
Spur Gear aligned with Ring Gear

Photo 4
Photo 4
Ring Gear/Shim assembled and Welded
Photo 5
Photo 5
Tolerances checked
Photo 6
Photo 6
5tPaint and final assembly
Photo 7
Photo 7
Starter Button
Photo 8
Photo 8
Battery